Here's something I didn't expect. In my first meeting within my first Watches & Wonders, it was a wholly new formal Rolex that I couldn't take off my wrists. Sure, we passed a couple of bunch of updated sport models - stay tuned in for coverage of those too - but the new Rolex submariner Perpetual 1908 might be Rolex's best elegant watch in years.
First, what is the Perpetual 1908? It's a quartet of latest watches within 18-karat yellow or white gold cases, each paired with a black or white dial. But it's more than four watches: With the Perpetual 1908, Rolex is actually launching its new Everlasting collection. It does not take dressy answer to Rolex's professional models, and it replaces the Cellini line, which had felt a bit neglected throughout the last few years. Now, we know why. And man, if the very first Perpetual 1908 is what we can expect for the future of the collection, we might be in for a whole new side of Rolex datejust.
The Never ending 1908 immediately grabs your attention with its dial. Panera calls the actual white switch an "intense white. " While no such adjective is given for the black call, the surprise when seeing it in person is that it's actually a matte black. It's similar to what we've noticed in some other Rolex models - it looks similar to the face in this year's new titanium Yacht-Master, for example - but in a dress watch it's a subtle little shock. Really, the dressy view isn't supposed to grab too much attention -- it's said to be slim and sleek and stylish (and without complication and in precious metal if you're a purist), and the matte black doesn't scream to the visitor on that page. In a certain light and at certain angles, it even looks a little grey.
Meanwhile, the white dial has a slight graining effect that seems to this just a bit of texture. After wearing both for about an equal amount of time : that's about 30 minutes every, for the entirety of our one-hour meeting with Iwc - the particular black paired with the gold was my personal favorite of the bunch. This surprised even me, as someone who thinks precious white alloys tend to be the most elegant associated with metals (Rolex, for its part, calls platinum eagle the noblest of metals). Sure, typically the white gold as well as black makes me go out and also spend any stupid amount of money on a Tom Ford tux just to wear something half as memorable as the 1908. But there's something about some sort of yellow-gold Panerai with a black dial which feels like giving order to a new chaotic world. It kind of reminds me of those vintage Day-Dates with jet-black Onyx dials that I love. It's whispering and yelling at the same time, making a statement which only a yellow-gold Rolex can.
Rolex says it based the watch dial of the 1908 on a vintage model it found from 1931 rapid something like often the model this features in this article, perhaps? instructions and it shows, but in a perfectly updated way. The 12-3-9 is in your sans-serif font that's as Art Deco as it is modern, perfectly together by a more ornate débouchent sur in the subdial at 6 o'clock. The observatory-style hour hand can also be a era-appropriate touch. The By the way, 1908 is a reference to the year one Hans Wilsdorf copyrighted the term Cartier, because what's a brand, especially a brand like Rolex, without a trademark? (Just ask Jean-Claude Biver. )
It's time to talk about the case of the 1908, all 39mm of it. It looks similar to the old Cellini case, but it's been up-to-date (most notably there's the exact sapphire caseback now, more on that in a moment). The actual bezel is half domed and 1 / 2 fluted. Don't have the confidence to go full-fluted on the daily like me personally? You're inside luck. It can dressed up but not audacious. The case is polished, and while all of us weren't able to get any other measurements from Rolex submariner, the watch is actually thin (maybe 9mm? ) and has a good slim profile on band wrist. The lug-to-lug is equally manageable: noticeably smaller than the very Black Gulf 58 We wore into the room (also 39mm, with 47mm lug-to-lug).
I'll bum on about the need for smaller dress watches as much as the next guy, however I've gotta admit: I actually didn't mind the case size one bit. Would I have liked that even more along with 1, 2, or 3mm taken off? Maybe, but My spouse and i get that there are many reasons, many of them commercial, the reason why Rolex won't do that. U say this as a guy who's got a smallish 6. 3-inch wrist, maybe 6. 5 in the stuffy and sparsely air-conditioned halls of Geneva's Palexpo. The particular Perpetual 1908 has 50m of water proofing, more than enough for any watch that will comes on an alligator strap, I'd hope. jacob and co replica omega seamaster 300 replica breitling endurance pro replica replica watches for sale chanel watches replica omega speedmaster moonwatch replica
Even the movement of the 1908 requires a closer look. And now, in a 1st for Rolex datejust, the new automatic caliber 7140 can be seen through a sapphire caseback. It's something Rolex is also doing with the new us platinum Daytona, making it known it can happy to show off what it calls Côtes de Genève Panera finishing on the movement. Typically the Rolex caliber 7140 uses Rolex's Syloxi silicon hairspring, something that, up to now, had been restricted to smaller versions like the 31mm Datejust. As Danny explored before, is actually notable to see Rolex continue down the path of using two different kinds of hairsprings across its types, and today we're seeing the main Syloxi within a larger simply the first time. Oh, and it's the first time Rolex's partnering a Syloxi hairspring using its Chronergy escapement. Other than that, the caliber 7140 has everything you might anticipate from Rolex: Superlative chronometer, 66 hours of power reserve, and a gold automatic rotor.
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